Supermarket Sweepstakes: Grocery Shopping in Iberia

Since we all don’t live on “quintas” and grow our own food, or belong to co-ops where we share that food with others (who share theirs with us), we are among those who purchase our food – along with personal products and household supplies – at local shops, grocery stores, and super/markets.

In Spain, every town of any size has at least one major supermarket (in addition to specialty shops: fruit and vegetable stands, butchers, bakers and bread shops, fish mongers, corner markets inserted between “bazaars,” delicacy shops that we’d call delicatessens or delis in the USA … although their foodstuffs are totally different).

Olvera, our hometown in southern Spain, has two: Dia (Distribuidora Internacional de Alimentación) which is known by its Minipreço (“Low price”) brand name in Portugal … and Mercadona, a larger, full-service supermarket with everything departmentalized under one roof, and an annoying jingle that gets under your skin, erupting when one showers, shaves, drives, or otherwise isn’t thinking about grocery shopping.

Few Portuguese villages have such supermarkets. Instead, the “corner” market is where one shops when you run out of something essential or forgot to buy it while at a city-sized supermarket. And when you want fresh rolls or bread baked that day (two lunch rolls are €0.32). Or when you want to shoot the breeze, brushing up on your Portuguese with neighbors who are also there buying a thing or two.

But for major shopping excursions and expeditions here, most head to Castelo Branco’s industrial zone, where no fewer than five major supermarket chains have staked out territory alongside warehouse-size specialty stores selling breads, cheeses, fruits, and everything your pets and animals could possibly need (Agriloja).

We do our food and supply shopping weekly at these super/markets, visiting one or more frequently. Often back-to-back, on the same day.

While all of these mega-markets sell the same things (more-or-less), we’ve developed preferences for this place and that, according to the specific objects of our desire.

I suspect that what follows will promptly provoke passionate debate and dissension but, hopefully, discussion and dialogue as well … as we share our secret appetites and pleasures for where we consider certain “bests” in the food chain(s) can be bought and found.

If empirical research is to be believed, first among equals is Auchan (aka previously as Jumbo), the anchor store at one of our two major malls here in Castelo Branco.

According to DECO, Portugal’s largest (nonprofit) consumer association that’s been accorded “public utility” status, after analyzing almost 600 supermarkets in 70 countries, Jumbo was found to have the lowest prices of all large chain stores—especially in central Portugal. Further, the consumer watchdog’s research highlighted that Jumbo’s prices tend to be best across-the-board in terms of both fresh and frozen products, groceries, personal care, and household products.

The study found that “Jumbo was top of the table when it comes to cheap prices,” as reported the English online weekly Portugal News. “It was the number one choice for many shoppers in areas including Aveiro, Coimbra, Leiria, Lisbon, Setúbal, and Viseu.”

I can understand that: we relate Jumbo/Auchan to the ubiquitous discount Walmart Supercenters spread throughout the USA.

To realistically reflect the shopping tendencies of Portuguese families, Deco’s research put together a “hamper” comprising 243 products: 38% were a store’s own-brand products and 62% were branded.

We shop regularly at Auchan and, while we find that it’s the greatest numerator and common denominator in terms of one-stop shopping, we aren’t always thrilled with our purchases. To be fair, Auchan is the only place that carries our preferred Noir dark chocolate; and its own mouthwash – at one-third the cost – comes closest to the world’s leading brands in terms of swig and bang for the buck. Auchan seems to have a larger, consistent selection of “international” foods, and is the only place we’ve yet found for Ricotta cheese to make lasagna.

Trailing a close second to Auchan/Jumbo in Deco’s ratings is Continente, where “prices are, on average, two percent more expensive than Jumbo.”

While we sometimes do our weekly shopping at the Continente mini-mall outside Castelo Branco’s industrial zone, we’re not that impressed. Except on some of the special deals offered – like tables and chairs – in front of the store itself. This particular Continente appears to have very narrow aisles and rows, compounded by the number of shopping carts left unattended while customers head for items located in other aisles. We find the largest selection of paper goods at Continente (especially boxed tissues), and it’s the only place nearby where big people who like and use it can buy Johnson & Johnson’s baby powder.

On the other side of the industrial zone is our other major mall, where Pingo Doce (“Sweet Drop”) supermarket serves as its anchor store. Contrary to Deco’s research – which found Pingo’s prices, on average, six percent higher than Jumbo’s – we think much of the inventory at Pingo costs less. Do we do our major shopping there? No. But we do, especially, appreciate Pingo Doce’s pre-prepared, ready-to-eat servings from its café bar and (when available), its chicken and/or tuna spread submarine sandwiches. Hey, can you even buy the fixings of these tasty foot-longers for just €1.79 … let alone, spend time fixing them?

Largely due to “the prices of their fresh fruits and vegetables” and meat and fish supplied by external companies, and “therefore higher prices,” Deco’s survey found Intermarché, Minipreço, and Lidl to be the most expensive supermarkets.

But we believe that depends on what you’re looking to buy and spend.

Take Lidl, for instance.

Nowhere else – not at Jumbo, Continente, Pingo Doce, Minipreço, or Intermarché – could we find such a vast variety of freshly-baked breads and bread products (like the “misto” croissants of ham and cheese, or the chorizo-filled rolls), cooked on premises and put out, piping hot, while you’re standing there. At lower prices than anywhere else. We think the cuts of meat at Lidl are butchered and cut closer to “American-style” than anywhere else.

At Lidl, I can buy “real” orange juice from the freezer case, similar to Tropicana and Florida’s Natural brands back in the USA. Elsewhere, the orange juice is made from concentrate, sold in boxes or containers displayed on the shelves, and tastes more like Tang orange drink than real juice (zumo). The store’s “Diez” cosmetics, groceries, and other products give the competition a marathon for our money.

What’s more, shopping at Lidl is like going on a treasure hunt: you’ll never know what you’ll find – clothing to small appliances, hardware to DVDs and CDs – in its bin aisles. It’s the closest we’ve come to finding close-outs carried by the likes of TJ Maxx, Tuesday Morning, or Big Lots here today, gone tomorrow, in Castelo Branco.

So much for plugging Lidl … except to say that we truly dislike shopping there. Every Lidl we’ve been to feels cramped, dirty, and takes forever to check out (as there’s usually only one, maybe two cashier lines open). During these times of pandemic pandemonium, it appears that other grocery chains take greater care in social distancing (at least on the conveyer belts) and sanitizing the credit card terminals than does Lidl.

The only Aldi we’ve been to, Portalegre’s, in many ways is similar to Lidl. According to what we’ve been told, it’s the only place where real sour cream is readily accessible!

Contrary to Deco’s claims, we’ve found the best buys and lowest prices on certain items – store-brand cleaning products and supplies, even wines at times – at Minipreço, directly opposite Continente. It’s not a place to wander up and down the aisles. You can’t. But to run in and pick up certain cheaply-priced items, Minipreço can’t be beat.

(Unless, of course, Auchan, Continente, or Lidl have those items on sale.)

And then there’s Intermarché, part of the Minipreço and Lidl troika.

I’m here to tell you that, yes, it is higher priced! And that you’d better be careful when buying items promoted as “on sale” as, all too often, what rings up at the register is the regular, not sales, price of items. Quite a few times, we have had to point out the disparity to the cashier, showing her the product’s price as listed in its weekly sales flyer.

Yet, ironically, we spend more of our time and money at Intermarché than at all of the other supermarkets.

One reason is its location: Yes, there’s an Intermarché (attached to its sibling, BricoMarché) in Castelo Branco’s industrial zone. But the one in Alcains is much closer to us and it’s far more convenient to run out for something we “need” (or forgot) when the destination is ten minutes, not thirty, away.

Results of Deco’s recent research were released in early June 2018. Two types of consumers were profiled in the study: those who spend €150 a month on shopping, and those whose monthly shopping costs up to €400. “Those who spend more also save more,” it concluded.

Russ and I do spend more than €400 each month on our supermarket shopping, so we should have saved enough to be able to enjoy eating out at one of the area’s fine dining establishments.

Not now, of course. But sometime later.

Shared here are personal observations, experiences, and happenstance that actually occurred to us as we moved from the USA to begin a new life in Portugal and Spain. Collected and compiled in EXPAT: Leaving the USA for Good, the book is available in hardcover, paperback, and eBook editions from Amazon and most online booksellers.

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Expat, Immigrant, Fugitive, Refugee

I was wrong.

A subject of white privilege, I liked the sound of “expat” much better than “immigrant.” One had panache, cachet, a spirited sense of ennui and adventure; the other conjured up black and white images of poor, huddled masses needing to be purified in the melting pot purée.

When we first arrived from the USA to retire in Portugal and Spain, I self-identified as an expat … assuming it meant nothing more (or less) than an American abroad living in another country for an extended period of time.

From time to time, I was challenged and corrected on my presumption: “Expats are here for a time or a purpose—a couple of months or years, studying or traveling or working. But, they then return home.”

Immigrants, on the other hand, have no plans for returning whence they came: they’re looking forward rather than backward, their feet firmly planted and taking root in another country.

A classic case of denotation v. connotation: it’s all about innuendo and intention!

Travel isn’t just about the destination (immigrants and refugees). Getting away is a way of life for millions of people who take breaks for self-indulgence, employment opportunities, cultural enrichment, education, and other pursuits (expats).

Personally, we had no intention of returning to the USA when we finally left early in 2017. Retirement and our future now depend on how the European Union (Schengen Area) treats us, not the capricious whims or executive orders and authoritarian decrees resulting from the [s]election of Donald Trump & Company.

What began as a knife cut to our soul soon led to ever more blood-letting—a lethal wound to our morals, values, and democracy. Reading the handwriting on the wall, we fled for our lives.

Fugitives!

Under Trump and the GOP, the United States had become a rogue nation, perhaps the world’s most powerful country to possess a massive arsenal of weapons of mass destruction commanded by a delusional despot who flaunts his favoritism, white nationalism, personal profiteering, and cruel inhumanity towards others.

Even before Trump, the United States had long been involved in violating others. In Korea. Vietnam. Chile. Libya. Iraq. Afghanistan. Syria. Venezuela. Cuba. Haiti. Panama. Nicaragua. Iran. And elsewhere, when the USA believed regime change to be in its best interests.

The path to “greatness” included savage treatment and banishment of Native Americans; ownership of other people as personal property; denigrating migrant workers who its landowners depended for hard work; establishing internment camps for people with slanted eyes; and, more recently, isolating immigrants from their families—deporting many, while caging children in abominable conditions.

One of the world’s three top carbon-producing countries, the USA’s involvement with the Paris Climate Agreement was rescinded by Trump, while a do-nothing-but-placate-patronage Congress allowed the USA to withdraw from the United Nations Human Rights Council … its commitments to NATO … the nuclear agreement negotiated with Iran … the World Health Organization … and its Intermediate-Range Nuclear Forces Treaty with Russia.

Meanwhile, through tariffs, sanctions, and boycotts, Trump & Company wreaked havoc with international currencies and global economics. Although the stock market continues to be artificially stimulated by Federal Reserve appointees, the country racked up its largest deficit ever. Unemployment has broken all-time records. Health has taken a backseat to business, whether or not as usual, with profits more important than people.

Dividing the country and decimating its heritage has a questionable president turning his personal paranoia into public policy. Trump and his cohorts in cahoots prosper, as unqualified money-makers come and go through the executive branch’s revolving door … while vital positions remain vacant because of political carnage and lack of loyalty discords.

Manipulating the resources and personnel of the U.S. government, Donald Trump has proven himself to be an accelerating existential threat to the rest of the world and the planet we inhabit. Especially in his irresponsible handling of the international Covid-19 pandemic.

Beyond the World Bank and the Bill and Melinda Gates Foundation, wealthy individuals like Lisbon-based Madonna (committing one million euros to the cause), world leaders – from the European Union, as well as non-EU countries Britain, Norway, Saudi Arabia, Japan, Canada, South Africa, and dozens of other countries – joined the virtual event, pledging $8 billion to research, manufacture, and distribute a possible vaccine and treatment to protect us from the Covid-19 virus.

But not the United States of America, whose muzzling of people with expertise and shunning rejection of global efforts to conquer the virus have alienated it further and farther from the rest of the world, while creating chaos and confusion from the federal level … leaving states and localities to stitch together a mish-mash of conflicting priorities which, ultimately, boil down to wealth vs. health.

“Chronic ills – a corrupt political class, a sclerotic bureaucracy, a heartless economy, a divided and distracted public – had gone untreated for years. We had learned to live, uncomfortably, with the symptoms,” writes George Packer in June’s issue of The Atlantic.

Violence, hatred, and malice are the chalice of communion among fanatics and their fans, flaming the fires of discontent.

Emboldened by the tone and tenor of tweets from the bully pulpit, the ugly American is – once again – rearing its head … with increasing violence, attacks, and confrontations against minorities and the marginalized: Immigrants. Black and brown skinned people. LGBT individuals and communities. Jews. Muslims. Asian-Americans. People who speak different languages. In other words, the “others.”
But the world no longer will stand by, shaking its head and wagging tongues, as Atlas shrugs and walks away carelessly.

New models on how to reopen European travel have no room for American tourists in the foreseeable future. The European Union’s “Europe Needs a Break” guidelines recommend replacing travel bans with what it’s calling “targeted restrictions” based on contagion levels.

International travelers from the USA and other countries that haven’t upheld safety standards on par with Europe’s won’t be allowed into the EU anytime soon for anything but essential reasons.

We’re not tourists, but are glad that we left the USA when we did.

Rather than expat or immigrant, we now see ourselves as refugees.

A refugee is someone who, due to a well-founded fear of persecution, war or violence, feels forced to flee his or her homeland. To qualify as a refugee, a person must have solid grounds of a “well-founded fear” that they are facing real danger. Moreover, refugees should fear oppression, hostility, and/or violence so badly that it forces them to leave their country of origin and seek sanctuary elsewhere.

Elsewhere for us is Portugal. And Spain.

Shared here are personal observations, experiences, and happenstance that actually occurred to us as we moved from the USA to begin a new life in Portugal and Spain. Collected and compiled in EXPAT: Leaving the USA for Good, the book is available in hardcover, paperback, and eBook editions from Amazon and most online booksellers.

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Rooftop Experiences

Infrequently do we think about the roofs atop of our buildings.

When purchasing a property, we may have their roofs inspected for leaks and other potential problems . We curse them for their wear and tear–and the rotten expense of replacing them periodically. Some of us mutter under our breath when we must climb a ladder to adorn them with timely ornamentation.

Roofs can make for great metaphors. But what about their sheer grit and beauty, the plumage of their composition?

In Portugal, like Spain, you can’t help but notice the rooftops. Everywhere, they’re as distinctive and colorful as a patchwork quilt sewn by the souls of seamstresses.

Unlike the pasty composite shingle, formidable slate, enduring metal, and flexible rubber roofs covering up most American properties, the multi-color brick and terracotta tiles atop homes of every stripe and size here in Iberia are characteristically appealing.

Indeed, they’re integral to the landscape.

Perched on the steep, stepped grade of the countryside, we look down and across at the rooftops here from our vantage points on the balconies and terraces that are part and parcel of inter-connected buildings.

Roofs are their own crowning glory, telling tales out of school about the wear-and-tear they’ve experienced over the years. By the climate. Invading armies. And their genealogies.

Especially in areas dating back to Moorish times, these colorful wrappers can be windows into the souls of the people and their places. So, we feel for the feeble roofs remaining as vestiges of neighborhood “ruinas,” reminding us of better times … while waiting for these distressed properties to be purchased and reconstructed (top-down).

I’m reminded of what some refer to as “mountaintop experiences,” those times and places when we feel truly connected to the universal, the integral, the almighty and eternal.

Have you ever climbed to the top of a mountain – or taken an elevator to the top floor of a skyscraper – and then looked down at the view below? Each offers an experience similar to peering at rooftops: Whether you are at the top a mountain or up on the roof, the world beyond looks very different.

Most of the time, life looms pretty large before me … filling my personal screen of attention.

But from the perspective of a roof here in a Portuguese town or a Spanish village, life seems smaller—not inconsequential–but smaller, simply part of what’s going on in the world around us.

That’s rather humbling, all things considered.

Photo Credit: Luís Francisco Fotografía

Shared here are personal observations, experiences, and happenstance that actually occurred to us as we moved from the USA to begin a new life in Portugal and Spain. Collected and compiled in EXPAT: Leaving the USA for Good, the book is available in hardcover, paperback, and eBook editions from Amazon and most online booksellers.

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The Best of Both Worlds

It’s no secret that we discovered Portugal through Spain.

For fifteen years or so, we’ve owned vacation bolts in Olvera, one of the small “pueblos blancos” dotting Andalucía, not far from Ronda, where the provinces of Málaga, Sevilla, and Cádiz collide.

When we decided to emigrate and live our lives in Iberia, naturally we first thought about applying for long-term Spanish residence visas.

However, rather than welcoming our interest and desire to live within its borders, Spain put up roadblocks and obstacles to apply for the visas. After trying to deal with its Chicago consulate, we finally decided that “enough is enough” and considered our options and alternatives.

Friends and neighbors in Wisconsin who moved to Portugal a year before we did advised us, “You really should consider Portugal!”

So, we did.

In the process, we learned a lot about Schengen nation visas (most of the European Union comprises the Schengen zone) and the differences between how one country evaluates immigration visas sought by non-EU nationals and how such requests are handled by other countries.

It’s all in the interpretation.

Basically, the components of your visa request – an official Schengen application, FBI background check, confirmed housing, birth certificates and marriage licenses, financial wherewithal, health insurance, etc. – are the same, regardless of which country you’re applying to for a visa.

Spain, however, has decided that every page of the documentation you’re submitting must be translated into Spanish … and only by a $40-per-page translator on its officially-approved list. (Portugal doesn’t.) Spain interprets “financial wherewithal” to mean that an applicant must meet a minimum annual income threshold that the government has set and specific additional amounts for each designated dependent, as verified by Social Security and/or pension income. (Portugal doesn’t.) Spain may grant you a retirement visa, but require that neither you nor your dependents work—“sin fines lucrativos.” (Portugal doesn’t.)

I could continue, but you get the point.

We were made to feel that Portugal wanted us to come and live there; Spain demurred and imposed a lengthy list of criteria and conditions.

So, imagine our surprise when we learned from the Spanish consulates in Lisbon and Porto that simply by going to their offices with our USA passports and Portuguese residency cards (and, presumably, other papers), we could be granted non-lucrative residency status in Spain. Rather easily. Evidently, there’s agreement among Schengen countries that, if one grants you residency, it can be transferred to another.

If we wanted, it appears that we could move to Spain and legally live there now full-time. Wasn’t that what we had wanted all along?

After Portugal granted our residency visas and first residence permits, we took some time to get settled. About six months later, we went for a month’s vacation (and some housework) to our place in Spain.

The differences between the two countries were striking.

While Spain and Portugal can both soothe the soul and lift one’s spirit, there’s a certain calm and sense of tranquility – a sweet sorrow – that permeates Portugal. There’s also a kindred serenity to Portugal, a balm that’s conveyed through the least likely of sources: its language!

Despite Slavic-like pronunciation, Portuguese has a softer “shhhhh…” sound than lisping Spanish. It’s as if Spanish words were blended, like French, with a sprinkling of something foreign and strangely exotic.

I doubt I will ever master Portuguese or be comfortably conversant in the language, since I stumble over my Spanish mentality. No matter how I try to understand the rules and logic behind Portuguese, I can’t. With rhyme yet without reason, the language makes no sense to me.

But I’ll keep trying and working on it.

Because, without realizing how or when it happened, we’d put down roots in Portugal. And language is one of its strongest supports.

Much as we love the place and its people, Spain has always been our home away from home—and it will continue to be … only more often and longer now, thanks to our Portuguese residency.

Maintaining our residence status requires us to spend at least 183 days within a 12-month period in Portugal. Conversely, we can be outside the country for 177 days during this period … a heck of a lot more than the 90 days allowed for USA passport holders to stay in Schengen zone countries.

Yet, who’s counting?

Shared here are personal observations, experiences, and happenstance that actually occurred to us as we moved from the USA to begin a new life in Portugal and Spain. Collected and compiled in EXPAT: Leaving the USA for Good, the book is available in hardcover, paperback, and eBook editions from Amazon and most online booksellers.

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